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MUAY THAI — THAI BOXING 4th WORLD THAI MARTIAL ARTS FESTIVAL BOXING CLEVER The colourful boxer’s shorts arrayed at souvenir stalls show what a national icon muay thaimuay thai match for the rich experiences it offers. Every bout combines ancient ritual with celebrity presence, brute physicality with balletic grace, fierce competition with modest respect. (Thai kick boxing) has become. Many visitors who wouldn’t ordinarily see a sporting event while on holiday — and might not be boxing fans at home — seek out a WHERE TO SEE MUAY THAI
Adopting the title of their boxing gym as their surname, prospective boxers (nak muay) chance their arm at provincial arenas. As in centuries past, many get their first bouts at makeshift rings on the amateur circuit of temple fairs. Some engage in demonstration shows at tourist centres. But the most accessible and thrilling matches alternate between Bangkok’s two showpiece stadia, where all nak muay dream of competing — and one day heading the bill. On Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, attention falls on Ratchadamnoen Stadium, a gem of art-deco architecture in the historic district of Dusit. Downtown on Tuesday and Friday-Saturday, the arguably more famous Lumphini Stadium holds prize fights. The stadium will relocate in late 2005 to a modern stadium a couple of miles away at Nang Linchee Road, off Sathorn Road, but will retain the name Lumphini. These are the bouts seen televised in bars, restaurants and shops nationwide. Still, nothing beats watching the action live. Benches are cheaper in the stands, but a ringside pass offers the added liberty to move around, view the skills in close-up, and snap photos as the punches fly. Each bill runs from late afternoon until nearly midnight. First the punters urge on a roster of children-in-training. Then as the crowd swells, come junior pairings, professional match-ups and, usually on weekends, contenders for championship titles. In the frenzy of the fight, some in the audience find it too hard to resist the urge to bet on the outcome. There may also be a novelty bout played for laughs, a match involving a foreigner, or a demonstration of old-style muay boran boxing. MODERN MUAY THAI Thais are just as adept at international boxing, having won gold medals at the past three Olympics. But muay thai differs in many fundamental ways that reflect the local culture.
SACRED BOXING AMULETS RITUAL IN THE RING Both boxers adopt low-sprung poses in the centre of the ring and offer a wai (prayer-like salutation) to all four sides. Each then engages in the fluid devotional movements of the wai khru rum muay. This sacred dance to honour their teachers also has practical origins. It enables the fighters to warm up, assess the opponent, and in former times — when bouts were conducted outdoors — to inspect the ground and weather conditions. ANATOMY OF A BOXING BOUT This diverse armory makes muay thai very entertaining to watch, with little holding or chasing, and much leaping, pirouetting and switching direction. Appropriately, the dance-like combat is set to music. A traditional live band plays drum, cymbals and Javanese oboe ever faster through each round. A LETHAL ‘WEAPON’ Some comparisons have rated muay thai the most potent martial art in the world. The discipline evolved from military training (the Thai army still favours the sport), and provides a career for many boxers. LEARNING MUAY THAI The variety of physical techniques demands intensive training and agility to master and deploy. You must balance them all; rely on just one or two techniques and you’ll soon taste the canvas. It also requires quick tactical thinking and wily defence against attacks from the most surprising angles. The techniques can become quite elaborate. The gra-dode sork involves launching both feet off the ground to chop an elbow upon the top of the opponent’s head. The khao loy requires a running jump up to chest height so the lead knee can clobber an unwitting chin. The yiep dhi looks like a pose from khon court dance, with one fighter stepping onto the bent leg of his rival and swinging the other leg to wallop an undefended ear. Whatever their nationality or faith, nak muay must abide by World Muay Thai Council regulations and perform the wai khru rum muay while wearing the mongkhon and prajiad. An equivalent is the coloured dan belts of karate. MUAY BORAN: ANCIENT BOXING Muay Chaiya is one of several old regional forms currently enjoying a mini-revival under the collective label muay boran (ancient boxing). Now often seen at festivals, the combatants wear loincloths, have wrists bound with abrasive rope and show more artistry in footwork than pro pugilists can usually muster. They also conduct the wai khru rum muay with more elaborate detail, elan and meditative concentration. Muay thai proves how a traditional art can modernise and become commercialised yet still preserve its heritage. The sport has become perhaps Thailand’s most internationally recognised export after Thai food. The sport’s emerging ambassador is movie star Tony Jaa, who is touted as the Bruce Lee of muay thai through films like ‘Ong Bak’ and ‘Tom Yum Goong’. There’s no finer compliment to a country than its cultural traits being adopted by the world. Just as many tourists acquire Thai cooking or massage skills as a lasting souvenir, increasing numbers take home muay thai techniques. More than a way to hone your body, focus your mind and impress your friends, you can shock any potential assailant with your Crocodile Tail Thrash. According to an announcement made in February 2005, a special Muay Thai division of the World Boxing Council (WBC) will now sanction championship contests, with a WBC convention to set international standards, rules and rankings. Given these developments, its repute will grow much further through global media exposure. Contact information: Lumphini Stadium Ratchadamnoen Stadium WHERE TO STUDY MUAY THAI Fairtex Gym Floor 9, Panjit Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thonglor), Wattana, Bangkok 10110 Tel: +66 0 2712 8810 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 1pm-6pm Sat, closed Sun As well as Muay Thai, this internationally affiliated modern gym teaches international style boxing, kick boxing, karate and other martial arts and fitness disciplines. Web site: www.smacboxingclub.com
MEDITERRANEAN MAGIC Israel Lozano, tenor A Concert by the Bangkok Opera with the Spanish tenor who wowed audiences in Bangkok last August with his beautiful singing and romantic performance in Puccini's Madama Butterfly The Bangkok Opera invites you to a romantic evening with one of the world's most exciting young tenors-one night only as part of his international tour. Spanish tenor Israel Lozano sings Spanish and Italian songs and arias by de Falla, Puccini and Verdi, as well as scenes from the exotic Spanish 'Zarzuela' operas that he performs all over the world with his teacher, Plácido Domingo. Israel Lozano won an unprecedented three prizes at the Plácido Domingo International Operalia Competition 2003. He has appeared at the Baltimore Opera, Washington National Opera, Los Angeles Opera, Palm Beach Opera, Carnegie Hall in New York City and with the National Symphony Orchestra of the US, as well as the Teatro Real in Madrid and, most recently, with Plácido Domingo in Vienna's Theater an der Wien. Trisdee na Patalung is the resident conductor of the Bangkok Opera. He has worked extensively as a conductor, composer and pianist in Europe and Asia, at the Concertgebouw and the Opera Studio Nederland in Amsterdam, the Hanoi Opera House and the Bangkok Opera. Tickets: 800 baht (VIP), 500 baht, 200 baht for students Contact information:
Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Bangkok, which opened, in December, has launched special introductory rates* valid until May 31, 2008.
Oakwood – “The Most Trusted Name in Serviced Apartments Worldwide” – is offering nine different room-only rates, starting from as low as THB 2,300++ for a Studio Standard room, to THB 4,615++ for a two bedroom Grand Deluxe. Also available are packaged rates inclusive of breakfast, high speed internet access, one-way airport transfer and late check-out. Package rates start from THB 2,565 ++ for a Studio Standard room, to THB 4,870++ for a two bedroom Grand Deluxe. Mr John MacNeill, General Manager of Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Bangkok, said: “The introductory rates we are offering are a great opportunity for both short and long-stay leisure travelers, to experience the independence that a serviced apartment offers. “City-break vacationers will also appreciate Oakwood’s central location, in the heart of the Sukhumvit entertainment, shopping and dining district. Our pricing is very competitive. Our location is excellent. Our facilities are brand new and supported by Oakwood’s trusted name in service delivery.” Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Bangkok offers amenities such as broadband Internet in every room, 32-inch LCD TV with DVD player, fully appointed and equipped kitchen, satellite TV (all major languages), refrigerator, toaster, coffeemaker, ceramic hob cooker, microwave, Sealy Posturepedic double bed, in-room safe and hairdryer. The two-bedroom apartments include washing machine and oven. Amenities also include Wild Wood Grill restaurant, rooftop swimming pool, gym, residents’ lounge, 24-hour lobby reception and security. * Terms and Conditions: Source: Oakwood Asia Pacific release dated February 11, 2008 For further information and reservations, please contact: About Oakwood Worldwide A division of Oakwood Worldwide, Oakwood Asia Pacific, is based from a regional headquarters in Singapore and is a joint venture between Oakwood Worldwide and Colony Capital, an international investment fund. Oakwood Asia Pacific oversees Oakwood’s portfolio throughout Asia Pacific including properties in Bangkok, Beijing, Guangzhou, Pune, Seoul and Tokyo and a large number of future developments in China, India, Indonesia, Philippines and Thailand. Oakwood Asia Pacific manages Asia's finest serviced apartments for business and leisure travelers, as well as luxury vacation resorts. In the Pacific Rim, Oakwood properties are known by the following brands: Oakwood Premier, Oakwood Residences, Oakwood Apartments, Oakwood Premier Resorts and Oakwood Resorts. Oakwood Premier serviced apartments are designed for international travelers who demand luxury and style. Located in prime center city locations, Oakwood Premier properties combine sumptuous apartments with five-star hotel service, such as daily housekeeping, airport limousine pickup, and onsite restaurants with room service. Properties are currently located in Tokyo, Japan and Seoul, Korea and will soon be established in China, India, Indonesia and Thailand. Oakwood Residences combine the spacious comfort of a private home, with the services and security of a four-star hotel. Each location offers a distinctive range of amenities and high-quality apartments with high-speed Internet. Oakwood Residences are currently located in cities such as Bangkok, Thailand; Beijing and Guangzhou, China; Pune, India; and Tokyo, Japan; and properties are being added in other major Asian business capitals such as New Delhi and Bangalore, India. Oakwood Apartments in Asia provide modern and chic serviced apartments with limited services and amenities. In locations such as Beijing and Tokyo, Oakwood Apartments offers exceptional comfort that is a superb value. Coming soon are Oakwood Premier Resorts and Oakwood Resorts brands which will bring the Oakwood concept of a beautiful furnished residence or villa to some of the world's most stirring resort destinations including Bali, Indonesia.
![]() At Talat Ban Mai, the local community has revived its 100 year-old riverside market on the eastern end of Chachoengsao province. Open during weekends and public holidays, the well-preserved market offers visitors glimpses of traditional town life and an opportunity to taste a myriad of Thai and Chinese delicacies for which the area, an 80-minute drive east of Bangkok, is known. Though the name means ‘new village market’, this network of over 120 wooden shophouses and stalls has barely changed since King Rama V paid a visit on 25 January 1907. The Sino-Thai settlement, founded during the reign of King Rama III, prospered from waterborne trade at the confluence of the Klong Ban Mai canal with the 230-kilometre-long Bang Pakong, one of the major rivers flowing into the Gulf of Thailand.
The half-hour trip contributes to the sense of heading somewhere detached from the pressures of modern life. The charming wooden boat chugs past raft houses, fishing canoes, plantations of betel palm and nipa palm – home to a small colony of birds, and the quaint water frontage of Chachoengsao town.
Earlier efforts by the community to develop the old riverside market into a sustainable tourist attraction had stalled. Given its proximity to Bangkok, the development of vastly improved transportation networks meant that much of the trade soon bypassed the traditional riverside market. Modern modes of transportation also provided a quick commute to Bangkok for younger residents seeking work. Both factors contributed to its eventual decline. The situation began to change in 2004 when the Baan Mai Conservation Club was established. Public hearings were held and growing local enthusiasm won support from the Tourism Authority of Thailand. The community also secured some grassroots development funding allocated by the government for small and medium enterprises.
Despite a couple of minor fires, disuse over many years actually helped preserve the teak shuttered structures, which are of an architectural style dating back to the reign of King Rama V (King Chulalongkorn), from major changes. Original residents have re-opened their shophouses to trade in goods not just for outsiders, but also local produce to give the market a self-sustaining function.
The re-opening of the riverside market has created local employment. Hawkers have been invited to set up a veritable buffet of stalls. Today, many of Baan Mai’s young generation return from jobs in Bangkok to help staff the market during weekends and public holidays. Their delight in revitalising their neighbourhood is palpable. Residents invite browsers to look inside their homes and engage in cheery banter without pretension or touting.
Sampling regional specialities is a favourite pastime with Thai tourists, while Talat Ban Mai offers foreigners an introduction to delicacies rarely served in tourist areas. The province is even nicknamed ‘Paed Riew’ (eight stripes), after a popular local dish typically prepared with a whole freshwater fish that is scored and partially sliced into eight bite-size portions before it is cooked.
Much of the appeal lies in watching vendors prepare the dishes. Noodles tossed in a medley of salad herbs; mee kati (rice noodles prepared with coconut cream and fermented tofu); coils of grilled northern sausage being chopped and dipped into a powdery mixture called pla naem, the ingredients of which include fish flakes, peanuts, roasted rice, shallots and som saa citrus juice. Restaurants overlooking riverine life also offer local dishes, while most arrivals treading the boards of the covered pier order ‘old-style’ coffee or tea strained through sock filters. For Thais, much joy lies in encountering candies recalled from childhood and especially the nam saa (soda fountain) stall. Shaped like a futuristic 1950’s jet plane, the carbonated water dispenser fizzes-up fruit syrups into a retro thirst-quencher.
While some outlets stock OTOP products, there’s a refreshing lack of generic souvenirs. Items on sale – from fabric incense to wooden mobiles – are as authentic as the foods. The covered teak arcade dog-legs towards the road. There at the land entrance stands a remarkable corner shop, where a cobwebbed wireless nestles on the altar amid talismans, Buddha images and photographs of a young King Bhumibol and family ancestors. In the broad central area, a stage is periodically set up for likae (Thai folk opera), which was traditionally performed in markets. Across a hump-backed bridge over a canal, more shophouses overlooking the river line an alley. Among the most archetypal sights are two barber shops; one with 1920’s Art Deco style slats in the Thai flag colours, another with carved teak barber chairs.
Famous sights often remain islands of heritage while their surroundings modernise, yet a complete historical streetscape may more evocatively transport you to an earlier era. Directors of period films prize these rare enclaves, which is why Talat Ban Mai is a popular film location, acting as the set for several costume dramas, such as Nang Nak and Chao Sua (Tycoon).
Before meandering back, visitors stop at Wat Leng Hok Yee, a Chinese shrine with papier-mâche sculptures of two Chinese deities in permanent meditation, both shrouded in billowing incense. It was named Wat Cheen Prachasamosorn by King Rama V, who bestowed the important Sampohkong Shrine as Wat Apaipatikaram.
Depending on how much you eat and photograph, you could spend an hour or three at Baan Mai. It makes an easy day-trip in combination with surrounding attractions focusing on traditional Thai lifestyles. These include the Khao Hin Sorn Royal Development Study Centre, the Chao Phya Apaipubed Herbal Museum, Irrawaddy Dolphin spotting at the mounth of the Bangpakong River and Wat Sothorn Wararam Worawiharn, a newly renovated Royal temple housing a famous Buddha image. Acknowledgements Contact information: Ban Mai Riverside Market - Bangpakong River Tour Schedule Bangpakong River Tour Schedule Ban Pa Nu by the Bangpakong River (restaurant) TAT Central Region Office: Region 8
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